Alright, I have just wanted to swap away from using Auto-Stabilise seeing as it is useful to not always stabilise every time you ADS with any gun. That and having watched some of the recent Halo LAN events with the pros jumping out round corners and sniping, it really seems useful (and badass). So jumping onto some Halo and toggling this setting to Manual, I quickly encountered a… problem.
I play on Green Thumb (wait don’t shoot me!) using my Xbox Elite Controller with all 4 paddles, mapping the face controls to them, and swapping X and RB around, so in essence, RB is now reload. My full buttons are:
However. In order to stabilise, I aim in and click the Left Stick (L3) and this is fine with all guns, except the sniper… it toggles the zoom! So now if I ever what to stabilise while using the sniper, it’ll zoom to x9 instead of the usual x4 that it is normally at, and I don’t want this.
So is there a way to get around this? Or am I looking at actually having to change button layouts? What are people’s suggestions?
Doing that stabilization sniper’ s trick has worked just fine for me on the default controls. I always just use the default controls. Perhaps some practice with the regs could help you out. That is unless you are pretty deep rooted in that green thumb control scheme. And taking anther look at your forum avatar I’m pretty surprised that this question is coming from an Achellies player. Thought you guys were supposed to be the ultra experts…
Auto-Stabilize On or Off is likely the biggest meta-game changer this game has.
With it off, a player has as much scoped/unscoped freedom as CE-Reach as they move. Jumping or Spartan-cannon launching while scoped is nostalgic. With it on, players can make awesome mobility-runs but lose range+mobility potential by hovering every time on one scopes off the ground.
There’s 2 major game changers with manually controlling one’s stabilizing.
There’s a glitch where variable scopes automatically go full zoom when using auto.
You gain scope mobility by giving up clamber mobility;
The timing for manual stabilizers does not allow one to get the same boost off a jump. You do not get the same height potential and depending on server stability, it can affect distance-floating for long grabs.
So it comes down to the maps and/or the type of player you are. Due to the power of certain paths, some players may end up mixing their team with different On/Off’s or change it specifically between map/playlist.
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> Doing that stabilization sniper’ s trick has worked just fine for me on the default controls. I always just use the default controls. Perhaps some practice with the regs could help you out. That is unless you are pretty deep rooted in that green thumb control scheme. And taking anther look at your forum avatar I’m pretty surprised that this question is coming from an Achellies player. Thought you guys were supposed to be the ultra experts…
It’s just wanting to not use any of the face buttons so I don’t have to take my right thumb off the stick, and I’d really rather not play Claw. And I do think the problem is only on this set up as Sprint and Toggle Zoom are bound to the same button.
And yes, I have Achilles, and usually would say when it comes to the game I am more of an expert than others but even experts every now and again have to ask the opinions of others
The only thing I want is for the stabilizers to not turn on when I walk off a cliff while scoping. It’s really annoying when you’re trying to get at an angle to shoot someone, and they turn on because you were about to fall a few feet.
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> The only thing I want is for the stabilizers to not turn on when I walk off a cliff while scoping. It’s really annoying when you’re trying to get at an angle to shoot someone, and they turn on because you were about to fall a few feet.
Yeah I just think that the ability to just use it when you want would just be so much more useful if you can get used to it.
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> Only way around I can think of is using xbox’s button mapping feature.
Yeah, and I had a look at the other button layouts, but none of the others that separate sprint and zoom seem to work for me, idk i might just have to do some funky stuff on that yeah, we’ll see haha
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> I play claw in hell jumper and have this problem as wel. Haven’t been able to find a way around it sadly.
Apart from maybe BTB or WZ I’d never need to toggle zoom ever. I mean, could we not have a disable toggle zoom option?
I’m also interested though, as it’s paired with Smart-Link in other controller configs, so is it just not possible? As by pressing it won’t it just descope instead of zooming in?
Only way around I can think of is using xbox’s button mapping feature.
Yeah, and I had a look at the other button layouts, but none of the others that separate sprint and zoom seem to work for me, idk i might just have to do some funky stuff on that yeah, we’ll see haha
Currently, there is no way around this, unless you switch your control scheme to on of the controls that have ADS on right stick click (one that doesn’t have sprint/zoom in as same button).
If you pick a control scheme that has zoom in and sprint/toggle zoom on the same button, you will always have this problem.
The only thing I can think of, which I haven’t tried myself, which uses an Xbox elite controller, is to pick a control scheme where toggle zoom and sprint aren’t on the same button, and then remap the buttons on the elite controller itself to what youd like. For example, you could play as bumper jumper (which doesn’t have this problem), and then remap the rest of the buttons to what you’d like.
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> > The only thing I want is for the stabilizers to not turn on when I walk off a cliff while scoping. It’s really annoying when you’re trying to get at an angle to shoot someone, and they turn on because you were about to fall a few feet.
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> Yeah I just think that the ability to just use it when you want would just be so much more useful if you can get used to it.
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> > Only way around I can think of is using xbox’s button mapping feature.
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> Yeah, and I had a look at the other button layouts, but none of the others that separate sprint and zoom seem to work for me, idk i might just have to do some funky stuff on that yeah, we’ll see haha
But you can change them around to your liking. Keep Green thumb just manually change a few others. It will take some getting used to in the end but it will be worth it.
Put your halo settings on bumper jumper, but from the xbox elite controller app, button map all the buttons how you want them (in this case make it like the green thumb settings). After you switch everything how you like it, you should have ADS on left trigger (switching it from r3 in the xbox app).
This solves the auto stabilize problem, but the ONLY issue now is that instead of holding down the left trigger to ADS, it’s now toggle. So you have to hit the left trigger twice to exit out of ADS.
At first glance, this might sound annoying, but it actually has a small benefit. On the normal “hold” left trigger to ads, if you want to do any type of ADS jump shots, you would have to hit the jump button then hold down the left trigger. For you, this isn’t that big of a deal, because you have jump on the A button on green thumb settings, but for people who have jump in the left bumper, this is quite annoying. So now I can just hit left trigger, stay scoped in, THEN jump, then if I choose to, auto stabilize.
but even experts every now and again have to ask the opinions of others 
